From Frigate Birds to Otavalo! — Otavalo, Ecuador

  Otavalo, Ecuador
Sunday, May 15, 2011

Official Itinerary Description:"Arrive at North Seymour in the morning to see frigate birds, blue-footed boobies and sea lions. Seymour Island is probably the most exciting island photographically. Bird life abounds, and close to the trail you will find many nesting pairs and young chicks. Seymour is also home to the Galapagos's largest colony of magnificent frigate birds. Their mating ritual is an ostentatious display: males expand the red sack at the base of their throat and perch atop a bush with wings fully extended, flapping furiously. Interested females circle overhead, and if so inclined, may join the male on terra firma. Further along the trail we can observe
a colony of sea lions."

The final day was actually pretty packed, considering it was just one excursion before a midday flight back to mainland Ecuador. We got up extra early (I think around 5:30) and saw the sun rise, which was beautiful. The crossing to the island (N. Seymour) was rougher than other days... but still not bad. No one had a problem making the zodiac to land hop.

The frigate birds puffed their red neck thingys (that's a highly technical scientific term) which was absolutely spectacular. They were so close and so still, you could really get a nice close up shot of the brilliant red. To be honest, I'm not sure how ANY male frigates are single!   Those red things are HOT. 

 

We saw tons of blue footed boobies...also very close- some even blocking our path! Afterwards, we headed around the corner to the Santa Cruz airport and before I knew it, my 8 days in the Galapagos was over. 

The flight wasn't so bad... we arrived in mid-afternoon and had pre-arranged transport to Otavalo. We were there by sunset. 

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Public Bussing — Otavalo, Ecuador

  Otavalo, Ecuador
Tuesday, May 17, 2011

Why not, right?

We hopped a bus from Otavalo to Cotacachi to see the beautiful leather goods. Why didn't I buy myself a purse? 

It's a beautiful and clean village- many expats live here, I know why. 

Wander the streets, visit the shops, snap photos, smell the leather. We had lunch at a lovely little spot... grilled chicken and rice- tasty and simple.. also very cheap. 

Dinner in Otavalo at a small place on the square- Otavalo was pretty dead. We shared the restaurant with no one except the cook's little girl who sat with me and colored until her mother yelled at her to leave me alone- I was happy with her sitting there but mom knows best.

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This market beats Otavalo, any day! — Saquisilí, Ecuador

  Saquisilí, Cotopaxi, Ecuador
Thursday, May 19, 2011

We arranged for a driver to take us to the Saquisili market from Quito early in the morning - The drive was pretty quick (thanks to the deathly speeds of the driver) ..it probably took about an hour and 15 minutes. Since we left around 6, traffic wasn't that bad...

I would recommend doing this early so that you can get down there to see the action - Remember, market-goers are early risers!

The market was divided into two sections... animals and then foods/crafts/housewears/clothes. Although the handicrafts for tourists section was smaller (MUCH) than Otavalo, there were a fair amount options that weren't the standard cheesy options - Yes, I know everyone needs an alpaca statue made from REAL alpaca. Why the heck would I go all the way to South America to not come home with one of those fluffy goodies? 

Aside from the tourist "musts", this market had some beautiful wooden spoons and bowls, ceramic bowls, hand woven reed baskets that were being sold to both tourists and locals. I bought a bunch of little pitchers that I absolutely love- They aren't really good for anything but decoration but they are adorable. I also have a giant wooden spoon that was clearly not for tourists but handmade .. I'm probably not going to use it for serving soup, but I do love having it on display. 

The animal market was also pretty interesting- dusty and dirty outside area. I wouldn't bring the PETA board of directors here....or any kids that think sheep are just pets. 

 

An interesting market experience (to me) was the herbal medicine salesmen. One guy was standing around selling some product that was supposedly a cure for cataracts - another some remedy for sore muscles. The whole dynamic reminded me of those guys in old movies who would roll into some town on a wagon and give speeches about some magic potion, sell a bunch, and then quickly leave. I'm sure someone catches my drift with that one...?

We wandered around checking out the food stands but didn't buy any snacks. There was a bread lady that was selling some amazing looking treats and I still regret not getting one...

Saquisili's market is clearly an event that is more important to the surrounding locals than the tourists- It is a day of congregation for this area and I was so happy the tourist market aspect hadn't totally consumed the authenticity (like Otavalo).. 

 Amid the chaos, there was a beautiful, simple way of life being displayed in Saquisili...people chatting, bargaining, listening to music, laughing... I wish I'd had more time to sit and people watch or talk to more locals.

I would highly recommend a trip on a market day - It's not far and the road is flat and straight. We paid $40.00 for the driver to take us, wait for 2.5 hours, and drive us back to the hotel.  

I wouldn't recommend our driver because he was kind of insane, but getting there is as simple as having your hotel call you a taxi!

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